PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIAI was a little apprehensive stepping over Au Lac’s modest threshold. Vegetarian restaurants are always unusual but this Vietnamese eatery offers meals that are a far cry from the usual fare of organic lentil burgers and grilled haloumi salads – soy-based “meat” dominates the menu, from duck and beef to squid and shrimp. While the food is obviously healthy (it boasts low fat ingredients with no MSG, cholesterol, eggs or alcohol) the question of taste and texture remains unanswered until the first bite. And what a delicious surprise it is!
You wouldn’t think much of Au Lac from its shopfront in the Asian heart of Canberra, Dickson. Aside from a few reviews taped to the window (all glowing), the decor is fairly standard with low-key lighting and schoolhouse chairs. With a legion of loyal customers, the small premises is often packed and quite noisy – yet the food does most of the talking. Choose from the chef’s special section to experience unexpected delights such as the Vietnamese cannelloni, stuffed bitter melon ball soup, or soy duck fondue. Every last bit of the spicy tofu with lemongrass that we ordered was devoured with delight. If you’re a diehard carnivore, you’ll never miss a thing; the soy products combine the flavour, texture and tastiness of real meat, with the healthiness and economy of vegetables. For a fun and special meal that is easy on the wallet, Au Lac is a great place to share with friends and family.
Russell Buzby, February 2008
