PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIAThis is a pub truly focused on its grub. The Grand National, known as “The Nash” to its patriotic band of locals, is tucked away on a street corner in the enchanting maze of Paddington’s backstreets. Dishing up top nosh, and keeping its SMH One Chef’s Hat firmly on its head for the past four years, the restaurant goes a step above the burgers and wedges found on the menus of its peers. The dining room’s dark floors and bentwood chairs contrast effectively with its white-washed interior and white-clothed tables, simply adorned by the colourful characters who flock to this Paddington hub.
Head chef Ian Oakes mans the open kitchen with skill, dishing up generous portions of hearty mod Oz fare. Benefitting from a recent overhaul, the menu proffers some interesting combinations. Begin the feast with a nibble on freshly shucked virgin Pacific oysters – small, tasty morsels complemented by a flavoursome shot of shallot vinaigrette. Continue with deliciously dainty medallions of lightly seared baby tuna, served with light Savoy cabbage and leek, thyme and fennel butter for added texture. The 120-strong wine list, which boasts two sparkling Champagnes by the glass, four whites and four reds, promotes the quaffing of boutique drops; while the kitchen follows a similar ethos, primarily sourcing produce from niche suppliers. For dessert, a light and fluffy white chocolate and honeycomb parfait indulgence, accompanied with ginger biscuit and candied orange, should surely do the trick; or keep an eye out for the renowned Eton Mess, which flutters on and off the menu sporadically. The dining room has plans to shuffle on up to bigger premises upstairs in early 2009, while the front bar will stretch out across the ground level.
Lauren Barker, October 2008
